The year is 1990. The Berlin Wall falls, the World Wide Web is nascent, and Rolex releases a watch that would become a cornerstone of its professional tool watch line: the reference 16550 Explorer II. This article delves into the specifics of the 1990 Explorer II, examining its features, comparing it to later iterations, and exploring its place within the broader context of the Rolex Explorer II lineage, referencing models such as the Rolex Explorer II 42mm Polar, the Rolex Explorer II Polar 40mm, and the more modern 39mm variant. We will also touch upon the availability of vintage models, as seen on platforms like Chrono24, and the allure of pre-owned examples.
The 1990 Rolex Explorer II, a robust and reliable instrument, embodies the spirit of adventure and precision that defines the brand. Its 40mm stainless steel case, a size considered perfectly balanced by many collectors, houses a movement designed for accuracy and resilience. The iconic orange hand, a defining characteristic of the Explorer II, provides a stark contrast against the black dial, instantly making it recognizable. This hand, initially designed to indicate a second time zone, further solidifies its purpose as a tool watch capable of handling demanding expeditions. The luminous hands and markers, ensuring legibility in low-light conditions, are a testament to Rolex's commitment to functionality. The screw-down crown, a signature feature of many Rolex models, offers impressive water resistance, safeguarding the movement against the elements. The "Chronometer" designation on the dial affirms the watch's precision, a testament to its rigorous testing and certification by COSC (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres).
Comparing the 1990 16550 to its successors, like the 2000 Rolex Explorer II 16570 Black Dial Stainless Steel 40mm GMT Date Watch, reveals subtle yet significant differences. While both share the fundamental design language of the Explorer II, the 16570 boasts improvements driven by ongoing advancements in watchmaking technology. The movement, for instance, might offer enhanced shock resistance or a longer power reserve. Aesthetically, minor changes in the dial, hands, or case finishing might be noticeable to the discerning eye. The 16570 also represents a shift towards a more refined aesthetic, albeit retaining the robust character of its predecessor. These subtle differences, however, do not diminish the appeal of the 1990 model, which holds a special place in the hearts of many collectors due to its vintage charm and its connection to a specific era in Rolex history.
The introduction of the larger 42mm Rolex Explorer II Polar and the continued popularity of the 40mm Rolex Explorer II Polar, both featuring the striking white dial, presents an interesting contrast to the 1990 model's black dial. The larger case size of the 42mm model caters to a preference for a more substantial wrist presence, while the 40mm Polar maintains a classic size while introducing a different aesthetic. The white dial, often associated with polar expeditions, further reinforces the watch's adventurous spirit. These models, while newer, still share the DNA of the original Explorer II, maintaining the robust construction and reliable performance.
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